3/21/2023 0 Comments Rab neutrino pro jacketFirst, it’s packed with a whopping 7.5 ounces of premium 800-fill power goose down (the past-generation model we tested had a little more at 8 oz.). Without a doubt, the Rab Neutrino Pro is one of the warmest technical down jackets on the market. We’ve noted these changes where applicable throughout the review. To see how it stacks up, see our articles on the best down jackets and best winter jackets.Įditor’s note: The Neutrino Pro has been lightly updated since our review, with key differences including the use of recycled materials, a new arm baffle design for added mobility, a slightly lower weight, and marginally less down (7.5 oz. Below we break down our experiences with the Neutrino Pro. This jacket is lofty, relatively tough, and well-suited for the depths of winter. This England-based company launched the Neutrino down jacket over a decade ago, and with a number of improvements along the way up to the latest Pro version, it’s one of the best on the market. So if there’s any brand we can trust to make proper gear for the cold and wet, it’s Rab. Looking to stay warm at your belay? Rab hit it out of the park with the Neutrino Endurance Jacket.Winters are harsh in the U.K., and British alpinists are known for getting out in all types of conditions. If its one thing Michigan Ice Fest guides know, its belay jackets. My one suggestion for an improvement for this jacket would be to add a large inside mesh pocket to store gloves, hand warmers and for this Yooper a warm Pasty! Another nice touch are the soft brushed pockets that when you slip your hands inside they feel nice and cozy! Don’t want the hood? It has a Velcro-free roll down system for stowing away the hood when it is not needed. Zip the zipper all the way up to form a port hole and the soft chin guard protects your face from the cold and wet. The Neutrino Endurance has a down-filled helmet-compatible hood, with side cinches to keep it snug to your face keeping the spindrift at bay. While climbing I do not like to wear a helmet liner so the hood of the jacket needs to be compatible with a helmet and it has to be insulated. I particularly like this one with the offset color which is easy to see and the zipper pull is simple to pull even with gloves on.įor me the most important aspect to a belay jacket is keeping warm and the 800 fill down certainly does a fine job of that in a variety of temperatures. Having a double zipper enables a hassle free belay and is a must for any serious climbing jacket. Spending a good portion of the ice season instructing/guiding means putting some serious time in belay jacket. As simple as a stuff sack is, this is a space saver. Coming in at only 22oz compared to the 1lb10oz of some it’s synthetic competitors, not only is it light in your pack it is also light on your back! The fact that it comes with its own stuff sack which incorporates a mesh panel, making the jacket easier to compress and allowing the jacket to “breathe”. The other thing I love about the jacket is how light it is. Rab lists the jacket as a regular fit but I found the medium I tried is more of an athletic fit (snug) which I found climbs better than most of the insulated jackets I have tried in the past. Michigan Ice Fest participants will appreciate that the Neutrino Endurance was built by climbers and many of the technical features demonstrate that. While field testing this jacket earlier this season, the jacket preformed remarkable well when a mix of wet snow and light mist coated us during a foray climbing along the lakeshore- a strong testament to the quality of the Pertex fabrics. This layer protects the insulation from the elements, maintains loft, and retains warmth making this jacket light, very compactable, and highly water resistant. Using 800-fill Nikwax hydrophobic European goose down, this jacket features a combination of Pertex® Quantum and Endurance fabrics which incorporates an ultra-thin air permeable coating that is both highly breathable, water and wind resistant. The Neutrino Endurance is a technical down alpine jacket, designed for modern mountaineering and light weight ascents, perfect for the Upper Peninsula’s long approaches and arctic winter conditions. This season I was excited to test out the RAB Neutrino Endurance Jacket as I was searching for a warm, lightweight technical climbing jacket. Those bulky belay jackets, while somewhat challenging to climb in, did keep us warm. We spent a good portion of the season actually climbing in our belay parkas attempting to stay warm during long days on the ice. Two years ago the Upper Peninsula experienced one of its coldest winters on record with sub below temperatures and seemingly endless polar winds blowing across a frozen Lake Superior.
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